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Feb/17/2012
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Feb/14/2012
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Feb/12/2012
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Feb/10/2012

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Drywood Termite
Drywood Termite
Size: 1/4 - 1/2"
Color: Pale / Dark brown
Habitat: Dead trees, branches, etc.
Found: Southern states, Gulf Coast, and coastal CA

Drywood Termite Control

Drywood termites are a species of termites that are given their common name because of the area that they infest. Unlike subterranean termites that nest underground and must have contact with soil, drywood termites actually directly attack dry wood and create tunnels and chambers in the wood without requiring contact with soil. Because they do not need to make contact with the soil in order to survive, these species of termites will often times make it indoors from catching a ride on already infested furniture or other infested wood materials. This is also the reason why they will most likely be the species of termites that are infesting your indoor furniture and will not usually be the subterranean termite species.

Dry Wood Termite Control Products

Liquid Termite Control Borate Wood Treament Termite Spray Termite Bait System Termite Foam
Termite Liquid insecticides Borate Wood Treaments Termite Sprays Termite Bait Systems Termite Foams
Termite Granules Termite Dust
Termite Granules Termite Dusts
Questions & Answers : How to get rid of Drywood Termites (6)
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Drywood Termite Identification

Termites live in a very social community that is made up with a system of different “worker” termites. The caste system in a drywood termite colony is made up of swarmers, workers, and soldiers. Worker drywood termites make up most of the colony, soldier drywood termites protect the colony, and swarmer drywood termites are responsible for reproduction. They all have a very similar appearance and will be differentiated by minute, but unique, physical characteristics. For instance, worker drywood termites do not have wings and are a creamy white color. However, swarming drywood termites do possess wings that actually extend out to a length that is the twice the size of their bodies. Also, they are dark brown to almost black in color which is different from both the workers and the soldiers. Soldiers do not possess many different characteristics from worker termites, but they do have a slightly different shape. Their heads are large in proportion to their bodies and also possess mandibles. These minute details will help you identify the different workers in a drywood termite colony.

Differentiating them from the most common species of termites, which are the subterranean termites, may be a little bit more difficult since subterranean termites live in similar colonies that have the caste system. Generally, drywood termites are larger than subterranean termites and will grow up to a ½ inch longer than subterranean termites. Also, the location of where they are infesting may also help identify drywood termites from subterranean termites.

Drywood Termite Behavior

Drywood termites are given their names because of where they nest. They establish their colonies all above the ground and do not require contact with soil to survive. Unlike dampwood termites that nest above ground, drywood termites infest wood that is dry and does not seem to be rotting. Also, drywood termite colonies are very small compared to huge subterranean termite colonies. They may only begin with just 50 workers and will gradually increase in size over a long period of time – about 3,000 workers over a 15 year time span.

Drywood Termite Damage

Like all other species of termites, all drywood termite damage will be in the wood. Drywood termites eat the wood they infest as well as other cellulose materials inside the house and structure like wood furniture and fixtures. They also infest dying trees and dry utility poles. Because they eat the wood that they infest, over time, homeowners and business owners may find some severe structural damage. However, due to their small size in numbers, damage by drywood termites will take much longer than damage by subterranean termites.

How to Get Rid of Drywood Termites

The most important part of drywood termite control is to inspection. You must be able to locate the infested area and the areas that are vulnerable to drywood termite problems by looking for signs of infestation which includes piles of fecal pellets outside of the wood galleries, fallen wings that have been shed by the swarmers, ejected wood pellets and finally, try to locate the actually galleries and tunnels inside the wood. It is also important to inspect wooden materials that are purchased before they are brought inside the house because this is one of the most common ways a drywood termite colony will enter a home or structure.

There are several different ways you can treat for drywood termites which will really depend on how large the infestation and where the infestation is located. Many people will choose to do spot treatments with an appropriately labeled termiticide if there is a structural infestation. Spot treatments are done by drilling holes directly into the infested wood and injecting the chemical into the galleries. Others may only have pieces of furniture that is infested and will only require direct wood or furniture treatments. Wood insecticides and preservatives will be able to kill the drywood termite infestation in pieces of furniture. If the furniture is finished or varnished, it must be sanded down or stripped free so that the wood is bare. Wood preservatives and wood insecticides can then be injected into the wood or painted on and left alone to soak through the wood. It can also be sprayed on and left alone so that it will penetrate through the wood.

Keep in mind that all termiticides, wood insecticides, and wood preservatives have directions for application on the product label. It is a violation of the law if these chemicals are used in any other way than labeled and so please refer to the product label before any pesticide is applied. If there are any questions on the behavior of drywood termites or what products will be the most effective against the infestation that you are experiencing, then feel free to give us a call at 1-800-788-4142 or email us at info@pestmall.com.

Do You Have a Question about this Product? Ask Our Experts!


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Q. coming in on the firelogs?
We have always kept a small closet full of split log firewood in the house. Today I noticed some of the dry (not rotted) cherry and elm has termites on it. These seem to be dry wood species since I find no trails or tunnels to ground either indoors or out on the cords of outside stacks. Can I topically treat the inside of this closet-and the firewood itself?
A.   Yes you can treat the inside of the closet and the firewood itself. As long as the wood does not have a finishing on its surface Boracare has the capability of penetrating into the wood. However, for your closet, you may need to drill holes and inject the Boracare into the wall void area if an infestation has been spotted to be in the wall voids. Usually you will see piles of fecal pellets (droppings) just outside the nesting hole. Dry wood termites have the tendency of kicking out the feces just outside of the entrance holes.
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Q. drywood termite treatment
I purchased a townhome with my daughter in S. Florida 2.5 years ago. We did have inspection and did not see any signs of termits. After about 8 months my kids said they saw flying ants. ( wrong) I was in the residence and noticed brownish granular substance on my bed and acutally saw larvae like things on my bed and on the floor ( carpet hard to see) We had to replace the siding and we did not see any signs of termites. We would have treated. Called in our exterminatar and he confirmed drywood termites. Had Terminix come in and used Timbor in attic and drilled through ceiling drywall ( no truses or attic for entire residence conventional frame) and sprayed with can. Also had the only accessible attice area sprayed but my concern was the large container of insecticide was full! I smelled nothing. I had to call them back about 6 weeks later still haveing droplets on my bed. They came back with cans and drilled and sprayed in ceiling. Some worm or eating termites came out. Now they are back. Same area over my bed. What can I use. It costs me over $600 dollars and I feel they did nothing. They will not warranty any longer than 90 days because it is a townhome and HOA will do nothing and other residents say they dont have termintes and the immmeditate residence has been vacant for two years it is a foreclosure. What can I do ? What can I use for the longest protection. I will have to be doing this I cannot afford $600 per year for nothing. It is 1400 sq feet. I sprayed the window sills where sill met wood. ( exterminaor left his cans)
A.   It really depends on the size of the infestation. If it is possible, you will have to go up to the attic and find the source of the infestation and directly apply a non-repellent termiticide like Premise 2 in the foam or a liquid spray. If you cannot gain access to the area above your room, you will have to drill holes along the wall void and inject the pesticide. For wall voids, foam termiticides are the best. Spray cans are not effective as they don't provide a residual and are simply knockdown agents. Most are also detectable. However, Phantom may provide a good result for instant knockdown if you visibly see the termite infestation. Keep in mind though that pressurized aerosol treatments do not replace ground treatments or full treatment of drywood termites.
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Q. whts the best method for eliminating dry wood termites?and is the termite sprays "toxic"?
A.   For prevention, Boracare can be used for bare wood. Boracare penetrates into the wood for a thorough termite treatment. If you already have an infestation, Premise foam and Premise 2 can be used for surface treatment. Premise foam expands upon application so it is perfect to use in cracks, crevices, and voids. Although Boracare is made of natural minerals, all termite pesticides are toxic and should be used with precaution. Users should follow all directions on each of the product labels.
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Q. is termite spray toxic?
Is any termite spray toxic?
A.   Yes, termite sprays are toxic and should be used with precaution according to the label. As long as the instructions are followed, there should be no problem using the products.
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Q. drywood termite treatment method using Premise
Hi, Where do you drill a hole in the wood and apply the Premise foam ? Do you apply to the space between the wood frame also ? Typically the poked hole will be void of drywood termite because it is exposed to sunlight and it does not make sense to apply there.
A.   They may avoid the area where it is drilled if you do not finish the treatment correctly. When using the Premise foam, it will expand and take up 3 dimensional space, filling up the hole in which the light may come in. However, soon after the treatment we also recommend that you seal the holes to keep the lights out so that they may not avoid that area and continue to get exposed to the termiticide.
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Q. Drywood Termite treatment
The correct question is that since there is a hole after poking and exposing to sunlight. I suspect the drywood termite will avoid that passage way completely. Then applying any treatment may not contact any termite at all. I know that the foam will expand but will there be any termite loitering around the hole to be blessed by the foam ? Another question: Is liquid form of foam staying in wood after treatement will tend to invite fugus and mold ? Do you suggest it is better to use granules or dust form of Premise? And is it just as effective as foam form ?
A.   As long as the hole is not significantly large to expose mass amounts of light into the hole, it will not cause them to avoid that passage way completely.

There are lots of pesticides that are in the form of liquid or foam, used for spot treatment inside the wall void areas. Fungus and mold is generally caused by water damages in areas where it is not properly sealed after a spot treatment.

Therefore we highly recommend that you properly seal the treated area with a sealant to prevent possibilities of further problems
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